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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:37 pm 
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David Conwill wrote:
jpleslie1 wrote:
You have my sympathies on the tank leak. That happened to me too on my 61. Got a new one off eBay and I'm very happy with it especially as it's a 16 gal size rather than the original 14 gal.


Ooh, I didn't know there was an extended-range option.

-Dave

I believe the tank will fit all 60-65. 16 gal seems to be the more common size. It hangs a little lower but that's all and is not a problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:33 am 
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Does the larger tank require a different sender for the gauge?

-Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:22 am 
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David,

Yes it would, as the tank is deeper. If you used the sender for the 14 gallon tank, you would still have 2 gallons in the tanks when the gauge reads empty. I have also heard and read that the 69 only Mustang tank will fit in the opening and that is a 20 gallon tank. Since I have never tried that, it is not a fact to me. The dimensions other then the depth are compatible though.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 2:58 pm 
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Terry's right about the sender, I should have though to mention that. You're free to set it how you want though. I set mine so that when the tank is half full, the gauge reads half full. Now though I'm wishing I had set it so the empty mark lined up with an empty tank. As it is now, I have a "reserve" that I haven't quite figured accurately as to how much is left when the gauge needle is on the E dot.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 3:06 pm 
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I would adjust the float arm so it just hits bottom. And then possibly adjust the full stop so the float just hits the top of tank. It may go over the full mark but it's better to know where 'E' is as opposed to Full. 2 more gallons shouldn't make that much of a difference in the level. IMHO :D

Ron

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 3:09 pm 
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jpleslie1 wrote:
You're free to set it how you want though.


That’s interesting. I should play with mine. Assuming my tank is the 14-gallon type, I have at least a three-gallon reserve when mine is on E. I don’t think I’ve ever put a full ten gallons in my car, even when I thought I was dangerously low.

‘Course, I gotta make sure mine even holds gas first.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:00 pm 
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Monday, I ordered a '65-'68 Mystang replacement tank kit (PN FTK-658) from Laurel Mountain Mustang Parts. $122.00 shipped. Sixteen gallons and comes with a sender. It should be at my inlaws (I decided I couldn't work in the single digit temps anymore) today or tomorrow. Any bets on whether I'll be driving the Falcon to Detroit this weekend?

-Dave

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:08 pm 
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/ ... d1c2a2.jpg

A fellow on the HAMB was kind enough to Photoshop my vision for me.

In other news, the gas tank situation seems to be sorted out for the time being. I may have a slight weep around my vent. We'll see. I also may have found a 250 and a 3.03 3-speed locally in a '69 Mustang. The fellow who's selling it, said that if any buyer makes noises about a V8 swap, he'd pass along my contact info.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:18 am 
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Well, almost a year later, I finally got my electric wipers in. The process went remarkably smoothly, I must say, though I still haven’t got the new switch installed in the stock location - currently it’s hanging out of the hole where my OE radio was.

The OE radio, incidentally, is with my brother the electronics whiz for the installation of an accessory jack. He’s taking his sweet time about it, though, as he’s got a girlfriend.

The wipers seem to work well, but it’s been a dry spring here, so I don’t know when I’ll get to test time thoroughly. I think they need to be re-clocked, though, as they park about six inches higher than I think they ought to (the vacuum setup had the same problem).

I did a poor-man’s tune up the other day, after a long trip the car had developed an ugly miss. I removed the plugs and cleaned them. Number six was carboned up so badly that the gap had closed. I opened the gap up slightly, and snugged down the valve cover as much as I dared (I fear warpage), which I think has stopped the oil leak into that sparkplug hole. I also cleaned up the points while I was at it. The car runs great now, probably better than it ever has since I purchased it. I still have that slight stumble at idle, though.

Finally, my Mustang tank is working out well, though my jerry-rigged filler neck leaves something to be desired. The rubber boot between the tank and the filler neck doesn’t adequately seal against the smaller Falcon neck, so if I fill the tank too much, I end up with a trunk full of gasoline when it backs up into the neck. My current solution is to not fill the tank completely, but I’ve concluded I’ll just have to bite the bullet and drop the $40 or so that it takes to procure a new Mustang filler neck.

My current peeve (aside from the air leaks, which about killed me this winter), is the seatbelts. I got OE-style belts from Julianos, which are 74 inches long, and should have enquired about a shorter length, as they’re almost a foot too long. When I drive, the buckle ends up on my right hip, rather than centered. Anyone ever had a seatbelt shortened? I’m wondering if anyone is even willing to take on that kind of responsibility.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 4:44 pm 
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David Conwill wrote:
I also cleaned up the points while I was at it. The car runs great now, probably better than it ever has since I purchased it. I still have that slight stumble at idle, though.

-Dave

Unless you're wanting to maintain a pure stock car, I'd like to suggest installing a Pertronix setup. Even just the basic setup will replace the points and you'll never have to think about resetting them again. And it wouldn't surprise me if that got rid of the idle stumble. And you can open up the plug gap some and it wouldn't surprise me if your mileage then went up, I know mine did with my 65 289.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:53 pm 
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Dave

I had the same problem with long seat belts when I bought our 65 last fall. I was told that the local shoe repair shop will not touch seat belts due to liability issues. I called a seat belt manufacturer and they said they could shorten the belts but it would cost almost as much as new belts so I just bought new belts and installed them.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:59 am 
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jpleslie1 wrote:
Unless you're wanting to maintain a pure stock car, I'd like to suggest installing a Pertronix setup. Even just the basic setup will replace the points and you'll never have to think about resetting them again. And it wouldn't surprise me if that got rid of the idle stumble. And you can open up the plug gap some and it wouldn't surprise me if your mileage then went up, I know mine did with my 65 289.


The words “pure stock” and “David’s Falcon”, haven’t been associated with one another in quite some time. I think there’s more changed on mine than original - not least of which is somebody taking out the original 144 and putting in a 1968 170.

I have a Pertronix setup in my Camaro. Interestingly, it’s the only part that’s ever left me on the side of the road! That didn’t stop me from reinstalling it, though. I just keep the points stuff in the trunk “just in case.”

The only thing that might keep me from doing that is the expense. I’m on a pretty tight budget, and I’m still not 100% convinced I’m staying six anyway. I recently discovered adaptors to put FE valve covers on a Windsor, and that has me thinking V8-swap again.

64 RedBird wrote:
Dave

I had the same problem with long seat belts when I bought our 65 last fall. I was told that the local shoe repair shop will not touch seat belts due to liability issues. I called a seat belt manufacturer and they said they could shorten the belts but it would cost almost as much as new belts so I just bought new belts and installed them.


I would never have even thought to go to a shoe repair shop for seatbelt mods! Interesting.

I hate to throw away nearly new seatbelts just because they’re too long (or, realistically, hang them on the garage wall), so maybe I’ll look into having the factory shorten them. I put them in so I could take my daughter places with me, but I can’t tighten them down enough to install the car seat safely, so I really need to do something about it soon. It wasn’t an issue over the winter as the car doesn’t get warm enough to even consider taking her places in it when it’s below 45 degrees.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:19 pm 
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Dave

I'm assuming your daughter's car seat would be mounted on the rear seat. If that is so, could you move the seat belt mounting points farther to the rear effectively shortening them? I don't know if you would get a "kink" in the belts trying to get them through the seats or not. You'd have to pull the rear seat bottom and see what would be possible.

I'm like you...I hate to throw away almost new parts but keeping your daughter safe is your top priority, I'm sure. You can get new belts for about $20 each and could probably sell the long belts at a swap meet to someone with a bigger car.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:31 pm 
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Just daydreaming about sixes a bit at lunch time and came up with a couple of engine options:

200-6: “Mustang” Six
- Black block and head
- Gold “FORD” embossed valve cover
- Gold air cleaner (open element?)
- Holley-Weber progressive 2bbl carburetor
- Classic Inlines aluminum head
- Argentine exhaust manifold
- Classic Inlines street cam

170-6: “Hot Rod” Six
- Red block and head
- Sand cast finned valve cover
- Chrome “helmet” air cleaners
- Triple Holley 1904s on Offenhauser manifold
- Ported 1980s 200/250 head
- White ceramic-coated header
- Isky 3/4 race cam

Not having the money to do either gives me the luxury of being able to build them both in my mind. The first is inspired by a photo of a 375hp 390 V8 I saw recently, and the second by a c. 1960 Hot Rod article on hopping up the Falcon Six.

-Dave

PS 64 RedBird, I'm actually thinking about installing a LATCH system in the rear seat. I have a DIY article written by a fellow who put one in his '61 Fairlane.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:51 am 
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Well, I finally managed to get a fourth large-cap (Maverick) wheel for my Falcon. I had to buy some large caps to go with them, and decided that I liked the look of the 1952 to 1954 Ford center cap the best:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/ ... 6a1791.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/ ... 11ec71.jpg

What do you think?

-Dave

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