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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 7:35 am 
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A small update: The car has not been liking the cooler temperatures. It runs really rough until thoroughly warmed up. I’m thinking this could be further symptoms of the float setting being too high.

My radio light does work, and I’m absolutely loving having music back in my car. I still need to find an orphaned 5x7 to fit in my dash, though. I’m not paying for a brand new pair just to leave one sitting on the shelf.

Walking out of the barber shop this morning, it appears my passenger’s side has more camber than the driver’s side. I double checked after moving the car to the office and I’m certain of it. It is noticeably negative, while the driver’s side appears more-or-less vertical. I wonder if this explains the clunking from that area when braking hard.

I also deleted the retard hose from my dual-vacuum distributor. The car is running better now than before, although still not perfectly.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 8:02 am 
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Well, Terry's post on his friend's '61 camber problem has given me some ideas on what to look out for.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:28 am 
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Buttercup had a similar problem with negative camber in the right front, and toe out. I spent some time under the car looking, and decided the LCA bushing was worn on the RF. I got a set of Energy Suspension polyurethane LCA bushings off ePay from Summit Racing for $10.

When I took the LCA off, the ball joints and boots were still good, but the RF bushing was shot out. The metal spacer and half the rubber just fell out... the other half of the rubber bushing was gone completely!

The new bushings went right in, and the camber and toe looks pretty good. I haven't set it yet, but it sure drives a lot better now.

The thread with pics is here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=24872&p=188829#p188829
Rotor

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:39 am 
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Thanks! When you had the car jacked up, could you feel the play in the suspension due to the worn bushing? Or was the wear obvious to the eye even before you got it apart?

Just trying to figure out how I'm going to diagnose this.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 10:02 am 
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The way the suspension was loaded, I couldn't feel any play in the LCA on the ground or on a lift. Even my front end guy couldn't find play. I even used the Big @$$ pry bar, but couldn't get the LCA to move, since I couldn't load it at a point to force it towards the center of the car.

With the car supported on the suspension, I could tell the bushing hole for LCA was not centered on the bolt. So I figured that was a good place to start. :lol: I figure for $10 bucks, I wasn't out anything if it wasn't the bushings.

While I had the LCA's out, I cleaned them up, repaired the bent and damaged jack mounts, painted the LCA's and hit every piece of hardware with the wire wheel, clear coated all the hardware and coated the threads with anti-seize. It took longer to do all that than it did to R&R the arms and replace the bushings!

Rotor

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 10:51 am 
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Dave,

Go back to my link on the camber issue for a picture of the cause. It will be quite evident with a tire removed.

Rough when cold is quite often a choke issue. Might be something to check.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 8:09 pm 
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By choke issue, I assume you mean it is disengaging before the engine is adequately warmed up. In that case, the problem is operator error (manual choke). :D

-Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 8:50 pm 
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Dave,

That is not necessarily true. The cable could slip where it is secured on the carb and the butterfly may not be in a position expected. On the 6 in the 61 Tudor Deluxe, the cable slips and the choke is partially closed, not enough for black exhaust, but enough to have poor running.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 4:24 am 
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Well, now that wouldn't surprise me, as it's a later auto-choke carb hooked up to the cable. Far from an ideal setup.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:21 pm 
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Brought home the lockout cable and T-handle from the '57 Ford that donated its transmission. It's a dead ringer for my parking brake handle! I figure that's a good omen.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:09 am 
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In a fit of insanity, I sanded the rust off of my hood and quarter panel yesterday. Then it started to rain before I could coat it with primer.

Unfortunately, all my body work money went to rebuild the lunched transmission in my wife's Yukon, so I'm back to cobbling things to slow the rust.

:(

-Dave

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:38 pm 
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I got a deal put together today on a pair of quarter panel patches, but missed a good pair of '63 doors and front fenders. I also test fit the Econoline bell to the Ranchero overdrive. Everything fits perfect.

Lastly, the local scrapper has a new '56 Customline Fordor in the front row. It's a stick shift/V8 and I need to look into whether it's an overdrive. If so, I'll buy the solenoid and kick-down switch. I may buy the 15-inch wheels, also.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:56 am 
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My buddy with the '64 came over the other night, and in the course of trying to fit a 250 fan to his 200 (can't be done), I unbolted the 223 bellhousing from my T86/R10 and bolted on the Econoline bell. It's a perfect fit.

Photo of transmission and bellhousing.

I recently read on the HAMB that some early Econolines had a "heavy duty" option that included a 9-inch rear. I'll bet those also included a T86-type transmission.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:41 am 
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Dave,

Why doesn't the fan from a 250 fit? I have 3 of the 250's here, and fan has the appearance of fitting the 200 water pump.

For the 9" in a Econo, I suspect it would be in the 65-67 models with the 300.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:24 am 
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The van on the HAMB was a '64. I assume that means it had a 170 or a 200, as the 240/300 didn't debut until '65 IIRC.

The problem with the 250 fan was not that it would not physically bolt to the 200, but that there was insufficient clearance with the '64 transmission cooler lines, and possibly the lower radiator hose on the 200.

-Dave

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