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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:43 am 
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Terry L. Rahn wrote:
Given the size of that tranny, and related bellhousing, makes me wonder how it was fitted to the unique small six bellhousing bolt pattern on the block.


Terry, the way I intend to accomplish that is with this bellhousing. It is the same size and bolt pattern as the 2.77/Dagenham bell on the front, but at the back it has the large transmission pattern.

L-code is a 221? That's very interesting. I'm not nearly as familiar with my FoMoCo history after Henry Ford died. It seems they were a strange company.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:56 am 
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David,

In theory, that bellhousing should work with a larger tranny. I do not know the various bolt patterns that were used though.

The L code was a 221, and in later years the 250 inline six. The owner of the yard I was in told me the door tag info. It was Greek to me back then. The Ford history has mostly concrete facts. The fudge factor, is that they catered to the customer. As a result, a person could get any option they wished in order to satisfy them and to improve sales with a multitude of choices. Ford was not alone in that era, special order options were used by every mnufacturer. My Dad told me a few used by GM when he was a bodyman at the various Buick, Chevy, or Pontiac garages he worked at. He never worked at Olds that I know of. I still find auto history at the sales level an interesting subject with a multitude of variety. Basically anything was possible to make a sale.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:05 am 
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Having already compared the transmission side with an adapter intended for a ‘49-‘64 Ford or ‘51-‘64 Mercury transmission, I can say with confidence that it will work with those transmissions. My overdrive is still bolted to the 223 bellhousing (which, as you pointed out, is huge compared to the Econoline/Falcon small bell), but when I get them mated, I’ll post a pic.

Incidentally, the casting code on the Econoline bellhousing is C3UA-6394-A, which as I understand it breaks down as follows:

C3 = 1963-designed part
U = intended for Econoline series
A = designed by Light Truck Engineering Division
6394 = part number for bellhousings
-A = original design

I have come across some speculation that it may also have been used in Fairlanes. I see no reason that some ‘63-up Falcons could not have been ordered with the overdrive in that customer-is-always-right era.

Nowadays, though... sheesh.

-Dave

PS I saw at least one Mustang site that said the L-code could also indicate the 260.

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Last edited by David Conwill on Wed Jul 06, 2011 11:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:23 am 
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David,

The Econo parts can be found in other models. That they were designed for one model, often has cross over to other models. For example the C3AE 289 was also used in a 63 Fairlane, although the casting indicates a full size.

The 260 was always an F code as far as I know, never an L. That is another online mistake. The F was also used later for the 302.

Terry L. Rahn

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 2:10 pm 
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Hey Dave,

I checked out the parts book and they did use a 3spd w/OD trans in the 62-67 Fairlanes with a V8. They never listed it as being installed in a Falcon or a Mustang, the parts list for the trans only has data for Full Size (60-67), TBird (60-64) and Fairlanes (62-67). Starting in 68 they only supplied the 3.03 3spd trans and the 4spd. No longer list the overdrive model so it appears it was very short lived. Seems the TBird went strictly A/T in 1965.

Just an FYI!!

Bill


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 2:16 pm 
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Interesting data! The Fairlane and Meteor seem to have been a relatively popular home for the overdrive, and I’ll bet it was a nice combination with the V8.

I’m frankly quite surprised that the Thunderbird could still be had with a stickshift until 1964. I had always thought the manual transmission went away with the Square Bird.

If they dropped the overdrive in the passenger cars after ‘67, then from ‘68 to ‘72 it must only have been available in the trucks. Fordification says that the ‘72 Ford trucks were the last application for the Borg-Warner overdrive.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 12:13 pm 
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I haven’t been able to work on the car recently, but I did take it on a couple of long road trips (long for me: 7 hours to Alpena and back; 4 hours to St. Johns and back) in the past week. I have decided I can no longer tolerate the rough idle and the shuddering acceleration, and am going to buckle down and get it fixed this weekend.

I am convinced this has to be an ignition problem. The car runs fine, but just doesn’t sound good, bucks when decelerating, and stumbles while accelerating. I’m going to pull out the ‘68 emissions distributor with the vacuum retard and replace it with a Cardone-rebuilt non-emissions distributor that just has vacuum advance. I’ll be replacing the plugs at the same time, as I’ve had to clean them up several times over their life in the engine and I want to make sure they’re not a variable.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll have spent almost a hundred dollars just to eliminate a vacuum line, but it will at least have eliminated the ignition as a factor. Then I’ll look at the carburetor if necessary: It might be a good reason to rebuild the manual-choke YF I have on the shelf.

The other priority project is a comfort thing. I sent off my pushbutton radio to a restorer, who was supposed to be checking it out and installing an auxiliary jack. He and the radio have been AWOL since May, however, so I bought a known-good non-pushbutton radio with a warranty off eBay. I intend to hook that up over the weekend too.

It would be nice to get my tachometer installed as well, but I haven’t solved the mounting issue yet.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 12:14 pm 
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In other news, one of my neighbors bought a '64 Falcon Fordor, so I'll have somebody to talk Falcons with locally!

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 2:20 pm 
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While the kickdown switch is still available new for old Ford overdrives, the relay that lives on the firewall is not. Thankfully, folks more electronically inclined than myself have discovered a replacement from Radio Shack:

Quote:
Replacing the Ford Mercury OD relay with a bosch relay. I put mine in the housing of a burnt out original, after removing the old "guts", so it would look like factory.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ive002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ive003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... e006-1.jpg

It still uses the original fuse holder.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ive003.jpg

Cleaned up with the cover installed and a shot of aluminum paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ive009.jpg

WIRING--This swap was posted by another HAMBER a long time ago, so I made a couple and took some pictures for reference. I soldered the leads from the bosch relay to the appropriate terminals on the old relay and glued it to the housing using a spacer block.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ing011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ing010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/ ... ing009.jpg


Complete instructions for the retrofit in a 1950 Studebaker are found here.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:03 am 
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I just hooked up my 1960 Motorola OM 4 to the testing unit and it works!!

Now I've just got to install it in the car...

-Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:14 pm 
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David Conwill wrote:
Now I've just got to install it in the car...


Which went remarkably well. The PO had cobbled all of the modern stereo wiring to the old power lead for the radio. All I needed to do was crimp on a connection and I was good to go.

Not sure I did the light correctly, though.

-Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:14 pm 
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David Conwill wrote:
Not sure I did the light correctly, though.

-Dave


The blue/red stripe lighting wire on the radio should have a male bullet connector on the end and there is a triple female bullet connector on a blue/red stripe wire hanging out of the under dash harness for it to plug into. That wire is for the instrument cluster lighting. Wired that way dimming the dash lights also dims the radio light.

Ken

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:16 am 
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Stashua wrote:
David Conwill wrote:
Not sure I did the light correctly, though.

-Dave


The blue/red stripe lighting wire on the radio should have a male bullet connector on the end and there is a triple female bullet connector on a blue/red stripe wire hanging out of the under dash harness for it to plug into. That wire is for the instrument cluster lighting. Wired that way dimming the dash lights also dims the radio light.

Ken


Thanks! It seems I do have it correct. So either the radio light is burned out, or I just couldn't see it because I was working during the day.

There was nothing in that triple connector at all - what else was designed to go in there? Can I wire auxilliary gauge lights into the other two spots?

-Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:56 am 
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The extra terminals were for things like the ashtray lights, tach light or clock. And yes, you can use it for aftermarket gauges. Make sure you add a ground for the gauges.

Rotor

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:44 am 
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Crystal Conwill wrote:
Well, that was interesting. I see you forgot to point out that while I may not have much interest in working on cars, I am nevertheless damn good at it.


I posted a link to my blog on Facebook, and my wife read it. Since I haven't mentioned it before, she is really, really good at working on old cars. She can gap points like nobody's business, and runs a mean timing light.

I want to get her into carburetors next.

-Dave

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