I am in the process of installing a new top on my 63 convertible. I have the rear bow dimension of 23 ½” but do not know what the dimensions are for the other two.

There were no top pads on the car when I purchased it, which is why the top has to be replaced. The frame ripped through the top. Since the pad is not there, I can not use those to set the distance.

Can someone please measure the distance form the rear bow to the center bow and from the center bow to the front bow?

Thanks Johnny

I'll try to remember to get a measurement when I get home from work. I had basically the same problem with mine when I replaced my top. Measure the pocket distances on the underside of the top to get the middle bows spacing. There should be a bit of play in the pocket to allow you to finagle it a bit. You can also get a relatively close measurement between the rear bow and the "second" one by measuring the pocket to the split that is stapled to the rear bow. Here's one of my past posts on how I did it http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=18330

Good luck and I'll try to remember to get a measurement from my car for you. Shoot me a PM if I don't reply. Memory isn't what it used to be...

Edit: Here's the measurements off my car. For clarification I'll call the next bow forward from the rear bow the 2nd bow, then the 1st bow will follow...

Rear bow to 2nd bow is 16 3/8" centerline. 2nd bow to 1st bow is 18 1/8" centerline. The header bow is whatever is required to latch to the front and will change on each vehicle. These measurements may be a bit off on your top as the frame may be adjusted slightly different than mine. I'm not sure how much of an effect the adjustments would have on the bow positioning. In the end, you'll be stapling and removing the pads (and possibly the top) around a few times until you get it just right. For the header bow, I placed a balled up rag under the top frame to lift it slightly so that I could stretch the top and then mark it with chalk. I then stapled the top with the chalk mark right at the edge of the header bow and that caused the top to stretch just the right amount to get rid of the wrinkles.

Thanks vssman,
That was what I was looking for, a good starting point. You are right; the chances of me getting everything lined up right the first time are slim.

I remembered reading your post last year and found it in the achieves. I had also previously saved the pictures for reference.

I have been trying to find the Stainless steel stables locally, but I have not had any luck. The only ones I can find are 3/8". The ones I removed from the old top are 1/4" and 9/16". I may have to order them

I assume you marked the top side (outside) of the top skin with chalk using the front edge of the front header. Or did you mark the underside? I suppose you could do both.

I pulled the top over the front bow and marked the outside along the front "edge". Then I raised the top up half way and positioned the tops chalk line along the edge and stapled it down. You'll also have to mark the center of the top on both the material and underside of the header bow so that when you can staple it centered correctly. I got my staples from the link in my post last year (the place called "convertibletopguys"). If you have the seats in the car, do youself a favor and pull them out. I also suggest either a speed handle wrench or an air wratchet for the rear lower tack strips, You'll be taking them in and out a few times to get as many wrinkles out as possible. Also, a trick I found out is that don't overstretch the fabric especially on the rear sides as that causes wrinkles.

Paul